One of the biggest concerns about using metal findings in beadweaving is that normal loops and "open" (unsoldered) jump rings will tend to slip off of the thread during wear. To some extent, this can be remedied by making sure your findings go over a strand of beads, rather than having the findings attached over (or very close to) thread. However, this is not always feasible due to variation between stitches, bead sizes, and tension from piece to piece. The techniques I utilize require closed loops and are less dependent on idiosyncrasies of a given piece of jewelry.
(The bracelet used to demonstrate my technique in the photos below is stitched in a variation of Russian lace.)
Step 1: Work piece until nearly finished and gather tools and materials.
"Closed" (soldered) jump rings are the keystone of the techniques this tutorial will examine. Closed jump rings come in a variety of sizes, gauges, and materials. In the photos in this tutorial, I am using 4mm jump rings made from 20ga silver-plated brass. Chain and open jump rings are also crucial to these techniques, and as such, it's necessary to have appropriate tools with which to work. The photo below labels the tools and materials I will shortly describe.
The descriptions matching the labels are as follows:
1. Chain. This particular chain has open (unsoldered) links. Since this chain will be used as an extension so that the piece is multi-sized, it's important for the chain links to be large enough to accommodate the lobster claw. If your piece is not intended to be adjustable, your chain can be comprised of links smaller than can accept the lobster claw; you'll just need to add a jump ring or chain links which are large enough at the end of the chain.
2. Clasp. This clasp is a lobster claw. Lobster claw clasps tend to be very secure relative to other types of metal clasps, since they operate on a spring and close without a gap once the trigger is released. Other types of metal clasps would be attached in a similar fashion to the method I'll demonstrate here; however, most other types of clasps (such as toggle bars and pearl clasps) will be in two pieces, so you'll need to attach one half to one end of the piece and one half to the other end.
3. Closed jump rings. These are 4mm soldered jump rings made from 20ga silver-plated brass. ("20ga" means 20 gauge, referring to wire thickness measurements.) These soldered rings will be added to the beadwork before tying off. Without an opening for the thread to slip through or to pull apart under pressure, these rings will function as the secure foundation for your metal closure. If you wish for your closed jump ring to be around a strand of beads, rather than against the thread passing through the strand of beads, make sure that you have closed jump rings which are large enough to easily slide over your beads.
4. Open jump ring. This jump ring, also made of silver-plated brass, is not soldered. It can be opened using pliers (the technique for which will be demonstrated below) and will be used to connect the clasp to the soldered jump rings secured inside the weave.
5. Pliers. 5a and 5b show two different pairs of "chain-nose" pliers. There are many types of pliers used in making jewelry, several of which have interior surfaces which are flat for gripping and manipulating wire. Never use pliers with "teeth" (ridges inside the jaws of the pliers), as they will mark your wire, leading to a diminished aesthetic and irregular oxidation.
6. Wire cutters. If you are using chain which has soldered links, or if you find it difficult to open and close the links on your chain, you will need wire cutters to clip the chain to the desired length. Wire cutters are also crucial when using headpins and eyepins and when incorporating wire into your design. The thicker and stronger your chain or wire, the more heavy-duty your wire cutters will need to be. Wire cutters typically don't vary much in function, so it's usually safe to buy and use wire cutters sold at hardware stores when making jewelry (unlike with pliers, which typically have teeth when purchased at a hardware store).
7. The piece. Usually you'll need to have your woven piece nearly complete before you add cold-connection findings for the closure. However, in some cases, you will find it best to include a closed jump ring at the beginning of your project, especially for projects in stitches that are difficult to extend retroactively from their starting points. This particular piece is stitched in Russian lace, which is easy to extend at its beginning even after the rest of the weave is finished; therefore, I did not include a closed jump ring at the starting point when I began the piece, and will add one to the beadwork before I tie off the tail.
Step 2: String your final stitch and add the closed jump ring.
Now that you have all of your tools and materials together, you're ready to anchor a closed (soldered) jump ring into the final stitch of your piece. Pick up the beads for your final stitch.
Next, add the closed jump ring. Simply string the jump ring over the needle and slide it down to the beads you just picked up. In the photo below, the red arrow indicates the closed jump ring.
Step 3: Finish your final stitch.
Maintaining the pattern of the stitch for your piece, complete your final stitch. Please note: For some pieces, you may find it more functional to add a loop that isn't part of your stitch, rather than anchoring the closed jump ring within the final stitch of your piece. This is especially common in pieces made with stitches that pack beads tightly together, such as St Petersburg Chain or flat peyote.
Step 4: Reinforce and tie off your working thread.
Now that the closed jump ring is anchored within your beadweaving, reinforce the bead strand supporting the closed jump ring. Since the jump ring you stitched into your piece will be used to attach the clasp, it will experience some tug while the piece is worn. It will in turn pass this force to the strand of beads which holds it, making this strand more likely to break during normal wear than other parts of the stitch. To mitigate the risk of breakage, reinforce the strand bearing the closed jump ring and the strands connected to it. For a lightweight piece of jewelry, use at least two additional passes (for a total of three thread paths through the strand of beads anchoring the closed jump ring); for a heavier piece, reinforce more thoroughly. Tie off your working thread securely. (For a tutorial on securely ending thread, please refer to my blog post.)
Step 5: Repeat for the tail.
Refer to Steps 2 - 4 to anchor a closed jump ring to the other end of the piece. Reinforce the strand supporting the closed jump ring and securely end your tail thread.
Step 6: Attach the clasp using the open jump ring.
Open the unsoldered jump ring using two pairs of pliers. Please note: Never open a jump ring or loop by pulling the joint apart horizontally. Instead, hold the left side of the jump ring with one pair of pliers and grasp the right side of the jump ring with the tips of a second pair of pliers. Pull the right-hand pliers toward you while pushing away with the left-hand pliers to open the ring like a door (see images below). When you close the jump ring, perform the action in reverse to bring the edges of the wire back together.
Open the unsoldered jump ring as above and slide it through the closed jump ring anchored to the beadweaving. Add the lobster claw (or other clasp) and close the jump ring.
Step 7: Add the chain or other half of the clasp.
Refer to Step 6 to open a link of chain or a second unsoldered jump ring and attach the chain (or the second half of the clasp) to the closed jump ring anchored to the opposite end of the piece. Close the jump ring or link of chain.
The photo below demonstrates the adjustable size of the finished bracelet. Making use of metal findings with chain is one of the easiest ways to ensure that your finished piece is adjustable, which can be an important asset when making jewelry to sell or to give as a gift.
When using metal findings to add a clasp or embellishment to a piece of beadweaving, always consider whether the findings are anchored securely to the beadwork. Using the techniques I've presented in this tutorial will reduce the likelihood that your piece will need to be repaired during its typical lifespan.
If you're adding embellishments to a woven piece via headpins or eyepins, make use of wrapped loops to prevent the connecting loop from sliding over the thread. A tutorial video on making wrapped loops is available here from Fire Mountain Gems and Beads.
Happy beading!
The photos in this tutorial were taken by Perry Gilbert. Thanks a bunch, Perry!
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